The Original Sab-E-Lee

San Diego, CA (The Joy of Food) — Of all the Thai cuisines represented in California, Isaan-style may be the most delicious. The food of Isaan is famous for being very spicy and pungent, seasoned with fresh herbs and fermented fish (plah rah), featuring some of Thailand’s spiciest salads. All sorts of seasonings amp up a spectrum of hot and cold (including raw) dishes. 

The epicenter of this type of cooking in San Diego is Sab-E-Lee, where traditional dishes of laab and papaya salads commingle with Americanized noodle and rice plates to appeal to a wider array.

I’ve been visiting Sab-E-Lee since it was located around the corner from its current spot, where it was the size of a broom closet. The parking lot was partially for cars and also doubled as a waiting area for to-go orders. There was no where else to stand or sit. The current location is still sterile-looking but much larger, not that it feels that way thanks to the throngs of people that regularly pack the place. 

If Sab-E-Lee served nothing but the spicy basil stir fry, it would be worth a spot in your regular rotation; ground chicken mixed with red and green peppers, onion, spices, and of course, basil. The juices that settle at the bottom of this dish are an intoxicating elixir of savory and rich flavors that will thump your taste buds. Despite an extensive menu, I keep ordering this dish on auto-pilot when I visit. 

I also like the cashew nut available with tofu, a mix of onion, carrot, bell pepper, green onion, and water chest nut, a dish that also sings in perfect harmony. The pad prik khing is similarly solid and highlights bell peppers and green beans, although the latter is often added in overwhelming quantities. 

Laab is a plate of ground or finely diced pork (laab moo) or any other number of proteins that’s been tossed with fresh mint leaves, scallions, lime juice, dried red chili, and ground toasted rice. It’s a colorful dish, with speckles of deep red and white, and light and dark greens thanks to fresh herbs and spices. Sab-E-Lee is a good place to try laab if you’ve never had it.

Very hot, flavorful dishes encourage diners to diffuse the flavors with a lot of sticky rice. Whatever you eat here, a side of white rice (extra and not included) is a must-order.

Sab-E-Lee is a perfect place to try any number of Thai appetizers, including the shrimp spring rolls that come with both peanut and sweet and sour sauces. The curry puffs and crispy wontons are deliciously crispy and filled with chicken or pork. The Thai sausage brings some heat ahead of the main entrees. 

About that — the spicy scale is no joke. If you are a white person asking for a 10, the cooks in the kitchen will no doubt have a good laugh while you wait for your food and prepare to die. An uber spicy dish from Sab-E-Lee has the power to burn a hole in your tongue on sight alone. I’d recommend no higher than a 5 unless you have a high tolerance (and desire) for heat in your food.

Everything you order will be on your table in 10 minutes or less. Service is prompt and diligent, but anyone expecting overly effusive hospitality will be disappointed. Be aware that Sab-E-Lee is a cash-only establishment, an annoying fact for those who don’t normally carry cash or prefer touchless transactions. Planning ahead of your visit is a must; get money beforehand, and review the extensive menu to get a feel for things to sample and share with your fellow diners.

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

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