San Diego, CA (The Joy of Food) — For the record people, it’s CHES-arina. Not SEZ-arina or, even worse, KES-arina. A “c” in Italian almost always comes out as a soft “ch” sound when it’s followed by an “e” or an “i.” This is the rule 99% of the time. English speakers aren’t used to such consistency, since the English language is a lot more “whatever I feel like” when it comes to phonetics, grammar, and pronunciation.
Now that that’s out of the way, Cesarina is the brainchild of three Italian friends recently settled into Point Loma, in a part of the city more pass-through than a restaurant destination.
The executive chef, Patrick Money, hails from Mantua and presides over the pastificio at Cesarina, the pasta factory where all of the restaurant’s fresh, handmade pasta is made. True to San Diego form, this fresh aspect continues through to the produce and meats used in the restaurant’s dishes. An evolving menu highlights what’s in season.
The format at Cesarina is build-your-own and lets you combine any number of sauces with a variety of pastas to personalize your dish. The pomodoro fresco is a departure from most San Diego Italian-style sauces in its lightness, and when combined with some fresh, homemade gnocchi, creates just the kind of simple but delicious symphony I look for in my pasta dishes. The flavor is one of pure tomato, refreshingly sweet with a low amount of acidity that makes the entire dish sing. The gnocchi are well-textured, soft with a delicate bite.
Cesarina is as much a pasticceria as it is a pastificio and a trattoria. The in-house dolci program is led by Cesarina Mezzona, the restaurant’s eponymous pastry chef. An order of tiramisu, or should I say the pieces of it, gets wheeled over on a tray, then constructed table-side layer by layer. A thick application of custard lets the creamy, rich flavor of the mascarpone do most of the talking, finished with a too-heavy dusting of cocoa powder on top that ensures you’ll almost choke while eating it. Don’t inhale, although, this as a last meal would not be a bad way to go.
In a more serious foodie city, Cesarina would not be at the front of the Italian dining pack. But in San Diego, it ranks as a top spot for pasta. If the quality is maintained, I see Cesarina in it for the long haul and helping miraculously and single handedly to elevate San Diego’s Italian food scene.
Written by Joy
Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.
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