Sushi Katsu-Ya

Los Angeles, CA (The Joy of Food) — Ventura Boulevard in Studio City is a wonderful place to be if you love sushi. Nicknamed Sushi Row, this part of the Valley is home to a parade of fine sushi purveyors, including the original Sushi Katsu-Ya.

In L.A, your next great meal could be anywhere, from a food truck parked in a back alleyway to a tiny strip mall spot next to a dog grooming business. Katsu-Ya is one such place, an understated no-frills sushi joint serving raw and cooked fish entrees at prices under a million dollars.

Inside is Chef Katsuya Uechi, a veteran sushi master considered to be sushi royalty in L.A. right along with his arguably more famous counterparts, chefs Matsuhisa (Nobu, Matsuhisa) and Nozawa (Sugarfish).

The style here is decidedly anti-Sugarfish, less about ‘rules’ and more about good food, period. And, you can usually spend $30-$40 per person and leave stuffed like Shamu. The low-key look of the place also makes it a great one to go undetected, like a vagrant-looking Keanu Reeves tried to do at a table near us recently. Yes ladies, I’m sad to report he’s still sporting the unwashed homeless hobo look, but on the bright side, he’s got excellent taste in food.

Like every sushi place on the planet these days, Sushi Katsu-Ya imitates the yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño cold dish that Nobu made famous. Here, the thin slices of yellowtail are rolled up and topped with rings of brilliant green jalapeño, then placed in a delicious yuzu-soy marinade. There’s also a tuna version of this, similarly rich and delectable. 

The best dish in the restaurant may actually be the miso-marinated black cod. Yes, that one’s at Nobu too, but here it is half the price and still excellent. When I’ve had it, it’s been superbly tasty, a hefty portion of broiled fish with a subtle sweetness, often served with some seasonal vegetables. 

If you are visiting for lunch the deals get even better, and the place can be a zoo because of that. You can’t go wrong with the chirashi bowls in my book, big, heaping troughs of different fish placed on a bed of warm rice. There are also the teriyaki plates, definitely more about immediate satiation and value and less about exquisite dining.

There is also the sushi bar with maki rolls, hand rolls, nigiri, and sashimi, all standard fare and tasting as fresh as the sea. After a meal of elegant hamachi or expertly prepared ceviche, the sushi may seem almost beside the point. But it is very fine, artful even, streaky slices of fatty tuna, rich cuts of salmon, and uni, more or less the king of the sea. All of this will be devoured in a few bites, without stopping to think of the air miles, centuries of tradition, and complexities of timing that have gone into your meal.

Reservations are available but can be a crapshoot, taken via phone by native Japanese men and women for whom English is a second language. Despite everybody’s best efforts, you’ll have absolutely no idea if they’ve got you down for the right date, time, or year. But somehow, every time, you’ll find your name and party size clearly labeled on the board. If you arrive without a reservation, you can expect a very long wait.

While there’s no fuss and little in the way of ambiance, the first-rate execution of high-quality fish and an array of perfectly prepared hot and cold plates keep this place at the forefront of the sushi scene. I like the higher-end places of the Westside just as much as the next person, but in the Valley this is my preferred go-to with none of the snootiness and all of the parking.

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

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