Roma Sparita

Rome, Italy (The Joy of Food) — Visitors to Italy seeking traditional Roman dishes will enjoy Roma Sparita, but it comes with a serving of dislike toward Americans.

And not just a small serving, but a huge, heaping, palpable side of burning hatred, over-sized like everything else in Rome. This place will either be on your hit list or shit list with no in between.

On a quiet corner of the Piazza Santa Cecilia is where you will find Roma Sparita. The neighborhood is Trastevere, one of Rome’s best treasures hiding in plain sight. There are no tourist mobs here. It’s a quiet place where you can still hear yourself think and enjoy idyllic Italian life like a local, if only for a few moments.

The crown jewel is the cacio e pepe, a quintessential Roman dish if there ever was one. It’s one of the simplest yet most satisfying of Italian meals, one made of parmigiano reggiano, pecorino romano, and pepper melted into freshly boiled string pasta, creating a luscious thick cream sauce. It’s then topped with cheese and more cheese, amplifying the experience to astronomical heights.

Roma Sparita makes it extra memorable by serving it in a bowl of crispy parmesan cheese, its hardened petals arranged like a flower around the velvety pasta. You can honestly say you’ll eat everything including the plate here.

As a dish, cacio e pepe has gained traction on American menus in recent years, although shortcuts tend to be taken and it’s rarely made with top-quality ingredients. You can’t substitute neon-yellow processed Velveeta cheese for aged pecorino romano and expect to get the same tang and salty bite of the original.

To have it in Rome is a lesson in how great ingredients, though humble and simple, can result in something memorable and magical.

Cacio e pepe is a highlight and a must-have, but it’s only the beginning, Antipasti of bruschetta, mozzarella, and prosciutto are fresh, light, and satisfying.

Primi dishes of gnocchi and tagliolini with porcini mushrooms highlight the ripe produce and rich agriculture of the neighboring regions.

A secondo of steak, while somewhat gristly and fatty, is simply prepared and still better than most steaks from American restaurants, even top-shelf ones.

This all, of course, comes at a price, and not just a monetary one. About that aforementioned seething hatred toward Americans — you’ll be profiled upon arriving and will be treated accordingly. I’ve dined here with family and friends as a native speaking Italian and service has been quick, efficient, and executed as kindly as one will find in Italy. I’ve also visited with English-speaking friends and, under those circumstances, there is a night and day difference and includes rude waiters and shady math on your final bill.

In my book, no amount of good food is worth this sort of punishment, but your mileage may vary. Knowing this, you might not want to visit, but if you do, you’ll be eating very well.

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

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