Rating: 4 out of 5.

Los Angeles, CA (The Joy of Food) — Porto’s is a Cuban-French-Mexican-American bakery in and around the L.A. region popular for a mishmash of breakfast and lunch offerings at low prices. The catch? That would be the interminable line every minute of the day.

In a world of designer drinks and boutique pastries, we’re all amazed when decently and freshly made things don’t cost an arm and a leg. Ten years ago we would have rioted if someone asked us to pay $5 for a cupcake or a small (now tall) coffee, and now we’re desensitized to the absurd cost. In fact, social media hype implies you’re uncool if you’re not paying $5. In this world of heightened brand awareness and changed cost-value expectations, Porto’s is special.

There are few places where you can stop by for a breakfast croissant, a Cubano sandwich lunch, or enough pastries to feed a small village. Things here run like a well-oiled machine, with drinks and foods prepared and ready with little wait once you’ve ordered, whether you’re eating in or taking food to go. The business model and efficient behind-the-scenes operation are what make the lower prices possible.

A business like Porto’s harkens back to the day when good food and drink didn’t come with exorbitant price tags, gaining a mythical halo in its ability — and willingness — to sell high-quality goods at affordable prices by selling those goods almost faster than they can make them.

About the food: I’ve never had a bad bite or drink. Things I’ve enjoyed include pastries, coffees, and sandwiches. The croissants are fresh and properly made, the potato balls are wonderfully crisp on the outside and soft and chewy on the inside, and the sandwiches doughy or toasted, depending on the variety you order. They truly do it all, and most of it is done very well.

While cost, freshness, and quality are definitely reasons to visit, does it live up to the hype? And, does it warrant the immense wait times? I’ve had a slice of cake or an iced coffee ‘this good’ at lots of places, the difference being that those other places subscribe to the Starbucks mentality and pricing. As a result, you don’t start with a line outside that leads to a shitshow inside to get to the cash register. At Porto’s, you also need to plan ahead by order type since food and pastry counters are separate, although you can get drinks at either.

Porto’s needs crowds to keep its high-volume low-cost business model intact; one without the other wouldn’t work. The consideration, then, becomes one of time. If you live or work in the area or find yourself nearby and have some time to kill, Porto’s merits a stop. But thinking of Porto’s as a destination outing is not worth the trip, especially once you factor in evil L.A. traffic.

Joy the author of The Joy of Food blog

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

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8 Comments

  1. The potato balls and the mango smoothies aren’t bad either. But yeah, those cubanos are worth the wait.

    So. Have they opened up in San Diego yet?

  2. I love eating at Porto’s. My favorite spot for potato balls.

    • Yes definitely a highlight. Also available at The House of Cuban Flavor but I know it is out of the way.

  3. That would be wonderful if they opened up a San Diego location! I too have never had a bad bite here. Now if only I could just find someone else to wait in line for me….

  4. Los Pollos changed its name to House of Cuban Flavor; the menu looks the same.

    All of the Portos are family owned and in LA County. I don’t think they will expand to San Diego. When we do go, we are there before 9 or after 4. We pretty much miss the crowds.

    • Hi Cathy thank you I appreciate the catch! I had made the update previously in the stand-alone article but had forgotten the reference in the Porto’s review. It’s the same kind gentleman running the place (Guillermo) but just rebranded. Yeah I figured Porto’s wasn’t likely to expand beyond their current base but hope springs eternal ha ha. I’m grateful for the Buena Park location a little closer to home. And thanks for the time tip – I’ve normally gone for lunch and it’s a zoo. I’ll try earlier or later next time!

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