Rome, Italy (The Joy of Food) — If Italy has a modern-day Michelangelo, it would be the man behind the curtain at Pizzarium: Gabriele Bonci.
Bonci, known for his light-as-air crust and his complete disregard for toppings of the traditional kind, makes sure his dough undergoes a 72-hour rising process. It’s baked before any toppings are added. This produces a crust that’s fluffy like air with crunchy edges in just the right places.
Compress it with your fingers and it springs back up rather than cracking. You’ll notice it’s scented of olive oil, like only the best breads can be.
Al taglio pizza, literally meaning “by the cut,” is what they make here, and you’ll see any number of toppings available from one day to the next. If you spot something creative to try, don’t hesitate. You might never see that combination again and always wonder “what if?”
It’s hard to recommend anything in particular since the options change daily, but I’ve come away impressed with almost everything. Sampling is always good — select a few simple things (margherita, salami, or vegetables) and then whatever sounds interesting and takes you out of your comfort zone.
I’ve seen it all here, including scrambled eggs, duck, and flower petals. Ingredients are freshly sourced and high-quality, but that’s to be expected in Italy. Whatever you pick is cut (using scissors) and weighed to order.
You’ll find Pizzarium in what was once a seedy part of town, a low-key, gritty hole-in-the wall now reborn into a popular, modern outpost. The shop has gained attention and notoriety over the years so a once quiet lunch is now usually littered with droves of tourists. I think I liked the crime-ridden area of years gone by better.
Any staunch pizza traditionalists shouldn’t bother coming. Despite al taglio pizza spots on every street in Rome, Pizzarium is special and truly its own thing once you consider the artisan bread and the topping combinations.
Written by Joy
Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.
Leave a comment below or get in touch with me via my About page.