Los Angeles, CA (The Joy of Food) — I talk about Osteria Mozza the way that some people talk about Jesus, lovingly and like it is the center of my universe. As far as Italian dining goes, this Michelin-starred gem is easily the best that L.A. has to offer.
I tend to worship at the altar of Nancy Silverton, known far and wide as Spago’s opening pastry chef and as the creative and culinary genius behind legends like La Brea Bakery and Campanile, both basically sprung from the cobwebs of her basement where she baked bread day and night for years to keep up with demand. This is a lady who utters the word ‘obsessed’ with a smile on her face.
These days she’s doing something a little different. At Mozza, if you are lucky enough, you can spot chef Silverton drizzling Calabrian olive oil over a plate of that afternoon’s burrata behind the white-marbled mozzarella bar, the restaurant’s crown jewel and a place where the chef can be hands-on and socialize with customers. The idea for a mozzarella bar came after a ride on a Vespa (naturally) and a visit to Obicà in Rome, a mini-empire of restaurants known for pairing different types of mozzarella with salumi, vegetables, and spreads. For L.A., it was an original idea at the time.
Cheese and spreads are a marriage made in foodie heaven, a simple serving of cool, tangy buffalo mozzarella that’s countered by the herby punch of basil pesto or the smokiness of salsa romesco. I have a weakness for buffalo mozzarella, probably my favorite antipasto anywhere, and here it is fantastic in its many forms — fresh, smoked, or as a creamy burrata.
The pastas are almost all borrowed from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, carefully plated and magically delicious things like tagliatelle with oxtail ragù or pappardelle with rabbit ragù, all excellent, all hand-made in-house, all dishes that belie the time and effort that went into their making. If you are using your bread to scrape up every last bit of sauce as if you are a human dishwasher, they will keep it coming.
The ricotta and egg raviolo is probably the most superb thing on the menu, a perfect single serving plated on a canvas of very brown sage butter. It will be a surprise to no one that fluffy ricotta and creamy egg inside a pocket of fresh pasta is delicious. When you cut into it, the yolk lights up the plate like the sun. Gnocchi made any which way are another highlight, happy little mounds shaped with castagne (walnuts) or ricotta in a sea of mushrooms or a traditional ragù.
The duck confit is something that might show up on your table if you have ordered a second course thinking that you would have the room for it. The sweet, mild meat has crispy edges, and touches of pear mustard and sautéed sweet corn help cut through the richness like a sharp knife. This or any of the secondi, servings of fish, pork, or beef, are great for sharing.
Like many California restaurants, sides depend on what’s in season and could include roasted tomatoes with thyme, a medley of sweetness and herbs that’s wisely fortified and balanced by some breadcrumbs. Asparagus, carrots, and broccoli are usually sautéed and taste most fully both of the season and themselves.
Back when chef Silverton made the transition from Spago to Campanile, her successful pastry program was a common topic of discussion around L.A. That is to say, you shouldn’t skip dessert when visiting Mozza. I seem to always gravitate to the bombolini, warm lightly fried pillows of dough, delicious with their creamy insides and slightly crunchy outsides, and served with dollops of tart huckleberry compote and citrusy lemon mascarpone on the side.
And more recently, before chef Silverton was featured on Chef’s Table, it wasn’t impossible to get a reservation at Osteria Mozza a few days before. Now a visit is an endeavor that requires careful planning and cyberstalking at least a month in advance. Like so many things in Hollywood, there is an insider way: just show up. You might be able to grab one of the coveted stools at the mozzarella bar, also coincidentally one of the best seats if chef Silverton is in the house.
Written by Joy
Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.
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“I have a weakness for buffalo mozzarella…”
This is probably the understatement of the year!
For me, the bread is almost as dangerous as the duck. Both the table bread and the toast were amazing.
I almost died when they brought the duck. Though this is essentially a tasting menu restaurant with small portions and first-rate ingredients, it is, for the most part, all hearty, rich food. I’ve never left feeling hungry, even when I haven’t gotten half a duck plopped on the table. As many times as I’ve been here, my norm has been to get an appetizer, a pasta, and a dessert. And enough bread like I’m eating for four people.
Yes, I will do just about anything for buffalo mozzarella.
Mmm… Been awhile since I had duck confit.
The version here is pretty great! I just wish I had more ‘room’ to enjoy more of their second courses, including this one.