San Diego, CA (The Joy of Food) — In the past, I’ve waxed blasphemously about my dislike of the sandwich, piled high with slabs of sliced meats flanked by soft, fresh bread that is powerless to hold any of it together. In doing this, I’ve inadvertently maligned the humble banh-mi, a Vietnamese-type hoagie that, for me, normally celebrates the pig, but can come crammed full of any number of delicious things.
The go-to place for these in San Diego is K Sandwiches, a family-owned deli-style restaurant in a Convoy strip mall with lines that wrap out the door at lunchtime. A less wise version of myself, in my silly youth, foolishly refused to come here, judging a book by its cover and declining to eat at a place that I thought ‘stank’ and looked like ‘a gas station mini mart where you’ll get shot.’ This was in the pre-fire glory days, before the nice paint job, before the digital menu boards, and before I understood that ghetto practically guarantees excellent food.
A banh-mi is normally an inexpensive splendor. For close to the price of a Happy Meal at Mickey D’s, a fabulous, fresh, crusty piece of French bread stuffed with cold cuts, grilled meats, or vegetables, a few garnishes, and a thin spread of house mayo can be yours. I’m partial to the grilled pork (#9) myself, roughly chopped and juicier than you might expect such well-done meat to be, full of flavor and complemented effortlessly by leafy cilantro, crunchy jicama, sliced carrots, and some cool jalapeños that add a slight kick. The taste is delicious, but it’s the juxtaposing textures and intoxicating aromas that really put the banh-mi ahead of the pack.
The spring rolls constitute a decent side order, filled with plump shrimp and singing with freshness and flavor, especially when dipped in the thick, nutty peanut sauce spiked with a touch of chili paste that comes served on the side. These shrimp rolls are good, but they’re not as great as the ones at Saffron Thai in Mission Hills, packed with fragrant mint that gives them a pop of, well, minty garden flavor that can’t be matched.
The Thai teas here are also good, although I’m in TTA these days (Thai Tea’ers Anonymous) since I had developed a penchant for one too many on a regular basis. As a recovering tea addict, it can be hard to visit now for fear of a relapse, like Ben Affleck walking into a casino.
This place is more of an institution than an under-the-radar gem, so the word is out. Hopefully a reminder will have you visiting more often, as I intend to do.
Written by Joy
Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.
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