Hemenway’s Restaurant

Providence, RI (The Joy of Food) — Just down the road from Providence Memorial Park overlooking the river and across from the Old Stone Bank is the seafood gem known as Hemenway’s, its dining room a throwback to a different era, its patio the epitome of serenity. There are worse ways to spend an afternoon.

Rhode Island is blessed with a large contingent of seafood restaurants, most of which distill the many wonders of nature into clean, classic dishes. Opened in 1985, Hemenways’s tall ceilings, wood-paneled accents, huge windows, terrace seating, views of the city and the river, and dependably fresh seafood prepared in innovative ways are all draws here.

A plate of ceviche can be a lovely thing, raw seafood briefly cured with fresh citrus and aromatics, a preparation often vivid with bright, fresh chile, translucent wisps of onion, and a fish medley that lights up the plate. The marinade at Hemenway’s is particularly spicy, at first a delightful kick that leads to a long-lasting heat after you’ve swallowed. Some accompanying crispy plantain chips counter with a sweet flavor. Really, this dish is part ceviche, part tiradito, and completely refreshing.

The seafood broil is one of the most-ordered entrees, a bed of shrimp, scallops, and cod blanketed with breadcrumbs and Middle Eastern spices that cook together until the filling has steamed, the cover has crusted, and the flavors have melded. This is a dish where every piece is excellent, and the sum is even greater than its ingredients.

The best thing of all here is probably the grilled salmon, basically velvet on a plate. If you close your eyes long enough you could be eating butter, or you could be eating salmon — it’s hard to tell. Any of the fish on the menu can be prepared to your liking: baked, grilled, pan-seared, or pan-blackened. Each is unmasked by creamy, complex sauces, allowing the fish taste only of itself. This sort of simple fish preparation seems to get overlooked these days, where it’s not enough to cook fish well, the fish must have meaning, whether it be a bright new take on tiradito or have added elements that elevate the experience somehow.

Any of the sides are superb, like the mashed potatoes or the zucchini chips. The mashed potatoes are smooth and soft and unmistakably real, and the zucchini chips are one of those things you keep popping into your mouth long after you should stop.

The hospitality is as charming and genuine as the food is tasty. The team at Hemenway’s has worked here forever and you can count on everybody to be in the know about daily menu options, including ingredients and preparation. They take the time to answer questions and add context to your meal. These are the little things that help make a place special.

Hemenway’s is the full package with excellent food, a service staff that cares, and a lovely location right on the Providence River. I can’t think of a more charming place to enjoy some fresh seafood in Providence.

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

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