White Rice

San Diego, CA (The Joy of Food) — White Rice, a tiny storefront on the part of Adams Ave. that is bustling just before it turns residential, is that place that could be great, if only it could get its proverbial act together.

The first thing that you should know about White Rice is that it is the kind of place that may not have anything to eat. You’ve come for a bowl of pork sisig, but they’re out. You’ve come for some lumpia, but there isn’t any. You’ve come for some ube pandesal, but no luck there either. Of the dozen or so times that I’ve stopped by over the years, ordering has been like a scavenger hunt on more occasions than not, usually at noon, usually on a weekday, and usually many days in a row. 

White Rice came into existence thanks to San Diego native Philip Estaban who sought to serve up a modern take on filipino staples. He has all the pedigree of a chef who worked his way up in New York City (with David Chang at Momofuku Ssam, Daniel Humm at Eleven Madison Park, and Thomas Keller at Per Se) before returning home. White Rice was his first solo venture, first as a stand at the Liberty Public Market, followed by this brick-and-mortar bodega on the eastern edge of Normal Heights.

Here you will find a menu based around savory rice bowls of silog, a mix of meat, vegetables, and aromatics served over garlic-fried rice, where the version with pork is my preferred, a dish that, when done right, hits that essential balance of crunch and tang. The lechon kawali, if you manage to find it available, is the usual crispy pork belly with a twist, married with charred eggplant and fermented mustard greens for some interesting flavor contrasts. 

The chicken adobo is also good, probably a good gateway to filipino food if fried, greasy bits of pig aren’t your thing, and for vegans and vegetarians, a version with mushrooms and tofu is missing the meat but none of the flavor. 

For every strength there is a weakness; the idea is good but the execution is not, and the quality has taken a swan dive directly into asphalt. In the early days it was fluffy bases of rice and heaping bundles of tasty meats carefully prepared and served piping hot. That care and attention to detail gave way to a patchwork of dry rice and burnt pig parts haphazardly tossed in a bowl. If you’re visiting on a day when the kitchen is not on point, you will need the beer to finish your food.

The sides are also hit and miss, like the lumpia, passable but overly soggy, and the accompanying sauce hits way too sour. On the other hand, the pandesal is truly glorious, freshly baked, purple like a violet, and perfumed of ube, and it goes smashingly with the whipped ube butter served on the side.

The dining room, outdoors and small with a few tables, would be fine if the space weren’t infested with flies. Visit at your own peril, or drive 10 minutes south to National City, where filipino outlets are plentiful without the modern fusion twist.

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

Leave a comment below or get in touch with me via my About page.