The House of Cuban Flavor

San Diego, CA (The Joy of Food) — I’m not well-versed in many things Cuban, unless you count my fangirl crush on the late, great Desi Arnaz. Those of you under 30 probably don’t even know who that is, in which case I have one word for you: Babalú.

The House of Cuban Flavor is San Diego’s Cuban mothership, a rotisserie and bakery serving sweet and savory delights to the masses out of a corner hole-in-the-wall spot in west Chula Vista. “In case of emergency, feed me Cuban food!” reads a sign inside the small storefront, sandwiched between a CVS and a Grocery Outlet in a busy South Bay shopping center.

So here is juicy lechon in a bowl, a delightfully fatty cocoon of moist roasted pork commingled with white onions, black beans, yuca, and sweet plantains. This dish is magical, seemingly small in size, hearty in its ingredients, and bursting with flavor.

The grilled chicken is also excellent, rich in assertive flavors and plagued by none of the grease that turns me off to other rotisserie purveyors. I’ve enjoyed the chicken either as pieces or in the delicious arroz con pollo plate, although I’ve found it to be slightly dry across a handful of visits.

The pastelitos, or pastries, are standouts, deceivingly airy and flaky and light years ahead of what you can get in the middle of the LA feeding-frenzy shops known as Porto’s. 

Now I have two words for you: cheese muffin. Cheese and muffins typically don’t mix, but here, they’re merged to create a soft cake-type treat with a creamy cheese inside. 

You will also find strudel in several flavors, although note that this is Cuban pastry so those seeking German-style apple strudel (apfelstrudel) will be disappointed. Puréed fruity centers of guava, coconut, or mango are enveloped by a puff pastry that’s light, airy, and manages to stay in one piece as you eat it.

The papas rellenas, or potato balls, are a most delicious surprise, little round masses of potato ‘dough’ surrounding a meaty center. Though deep-fried, they’re not greasy at all, and are ultimately quite hearty and satisfying. Half the delight is in the texture, a light, slightly crisp breaded firm exterior immediately followed by mashed potatoes, soft and still warm from the frying process. In the very center is your choice of beef or spicy chicken filling. 

Similar are the croquetas (croquettes), finger-shaped things that are smaller, but feature savory ground ham inside the fried exterior.

If you’re determined to drop serious coin here, that will be difficult — you’re looking at a bargain-basement price of roughly $10 per person for eating well and leaving stuffed. Plus, cheese muffins.

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

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