San Diego, CA (The Joy of Food) — If this were 1980’s sitcom television, Sagmani’s would be that place where everybody knows your name, a low-key, no-frills local joint serving some of the best homemade Iraqi food in San Diego to a dedicated and loyal clientele.
Your GPS will route you to parts unknown, in this case an Ultimate Champion of Tires behind a gas station mini mart, all of it in a sketchy parking lot with cracked asphalt and a No Tell Motel around the corner. Yes, you’re in the right place.
The kabobs are the main attraction, boneless chunks of tekka that are soft like butter and easily cut with a fork. They are marinated in yogurt and spices and then grilled, the result being the most tender kind of meat with perfectly crisped edges and a taste that imparts a wonderfully ‘clean’ charred flavor with a slight brine. The beef shish kabob is well-seasoned and similarly juicy and moist, but doesn’t live up to the greatness of the chicken. The basmati rice is a warm pillow for either, very mellow and moist and light almost like air.
It’s good to start with the hummus and baba ghanoog, both scratch-made throughout the day and topped with sumac, cumin, and a light hand of olive oil just before serving. Both are thick and smooth and mildly garlicky. True to the very best form, the baba ghanoog is a tasty glop of smoked eggplant that lingers long after your last bite.
The fresh-baked bread for scooping is crustier, tougher, and less doughy than your standard pita, but is served warm and has a nice balance of yeasty flavor and a slight salty note that pairs well with the creamy dips.
Garnishes on most things include fresh tomatoes and fragrant cucumbers that add snap, color, and a pop of garden flavor, something that’s often missed in San Diego’s climate of rich, hearty foods. Unsweetened hot tea is free with your order, a deep golden color with a sheen on top that mirrors the sunset.
Prices are ridiculously low for the quality, quantity, and caliber of the food, bringing the entire cost of your meal to about the price of a dollop of tahini sauce at a fancy place. One caution though: I’ve had several experiences where they’ve tried to up-sell me by pretending not to know what à la carte means, despite having individual items listed for sale on their menu. If you want just the meat, don’t be surprised if they also try to sell you ‘portions’ that include a lot of other stuff, and charge accordingly.
While Sagmani’s is down the street from a number of sit-down rivals, this is the place where you would take your family for some simple food at fair prices. The staff is family themselves, and you might see them enjoying a smoke and a few laughs outside on the porch during some downtime, exactly like you’d see in any number of Middle Eastern or European countries as the day winds down. I think I even saw someone yelling at somebody in a car. Are we sure they’re not Italian?
Written by Joy
Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.
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