Miami, FL (The Joy of Food) — Entire religions have been founded on miracles less profound than the Italian bombolone, a type of doughnut that’s deep-fried and then filled with custards, creams, or hazelnut (the mighty Nutella, of course).
To find this type of fried carbo perfection in Miami Beach, where no one size 0 who aspires toward a life of permanent beach-sitting would be caught near this stuff, is surprising to say the least, but several locations of Rosetta Bakery prosper among the tree-lined, Art Deco glory.
You haven’t lived until you’ve tried a bombolone, in Rosetta’s case, freshly made and offered with either pastry cream or hazelnut inside. Unlike American doughnuts filled from the side, bomboloni are top-filled until the entire cavity is swelled plump and expands like a bomb, and so will you after a few of these puppies. The fried sugar-coated doughy part is deceivingly light and manages to act as a formidable container, each bite prompting out a sea of rich custard from the middle. A shower of the hands and face afterward is needed.
The cannoli are uniquely made with ricotta cheese that’s been laced with saffron, hugely sized and still crunchy despite being pre-filled (grr) and dipped in roughly chopped pistachios on one side and chocolate on the other. The filling is rich, not too sweet, and tastes of enough saffron to flavor Risotto alla Milanese. It’s a nice touch.
It’s hard to find good sfogliatelle, a pastry that’s everywhere in Campania, Italy, but sorely lacking in the U.S, clam-shaped things that are baked until golden brown and the layers separate, forming characteristic ridges that crackle and flake. At Rosetta, they’re tucked around a mellow center of pasty almond and orange filling, made to superb standards that would pass muster with any Italian nonna.
A small serving of panna cotta is delectable, if a little overly gelatinous, but the flavor is mild and rich at the same time, the way that good panna cotta ought to be. Some pureed jam and sliced fruits on top add contrast, sweetness, and a tarty note.
Miami Beach is exactly the kind of neighborhood that would make you complain about how expensive Miami is, and Rosetta Bakery doesn’t help that perception. Raise your credit limit before coming here, as the panna cotta in a tiny cup will run you almost $10, and everything else is similarly priced to the tune of ridiculous numbers. An assorted box of treats will run you more than your lunch, but it will be molto buono.
Written by Joy
Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.
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