Cloak & Petal

San Diego, CA (The Joy of Food) — I’d avoided Cloak & Petal for a long time as a serious sushi contender in San Diego, given its presence in what’s supposed to be an Italian-centric area. Little Italy in name only now, it’s filled with trendy steak houses, modern burger joints, and ‘new age’ health food places, basically San Diego’s version of the Meatpacking District with a dose of surfer dude on the side. I wonder why they even keep the sign up.

So now Little Italy is where we go to eat sushi. My own issues notwithstanding, Cloak & Petal, found on India Street’s north end, has emerged as a formidable player in the San Diego sushi scene, setting itself apart from the standard roll, sashimi, and nigiri pack by being more of a ‘small plates’ experience.

In other words, it’s the hip spot, if you care about that sort of thing. The marketing is trendy times ten. “Come unwind your soul” reads the tagline on their website. I half expect to find the latest massage packages from The Ranch Malibu as I scroll. 

In person, you’ll find a ‘Who The Fuck Is Lewis Voo Ton?’ poster on one of the walls, upstaged only by the live cherry blossom trees growing in the middle of the front room. The overall motif is industrial, but wooden accents and warm lighting keep the entire thing from veering too much into warehouse territory, however hip that would be these days. 

No introduction to Cloak & Petal is complete without the ‘sushi taco,’ a few bites of your choice of fish, rice, chives, and aioli served in a crunchy, house-made shell. The taco comes ‘sauced’ with the aioli thickly spread on top. The taste is fine, if a little rich as it stands.

If you enjoy spicy things, you should not miss the Hamachi Jalapeño ‘new style’ sashimi, a dish that has become as ubiquitous as California rolls in local Japanese restaurants. While Cloak & Petal’s version is decidedly more fussy and not as photogenic as Nobu’s, it comes served in a pool of delicious ponzu, lemon, and cilantro that makes this version ‘brighter’ than the competition’s, before the heat from the slivered jalapeño kicks in.

The ceviche is one of my favorite dishes thus far. Labeled an appetizer, it’s a medley of yellowtail, tuna, shrimp, Alaskan crab, and octopus presented as a cluster surrounded by giant tortilla chips for scooping. The citrus marinade is refreshing, if a little light on flavor, but this is helped along by the freshness and contrasting textures of the fish pieces. 

Unlike most Japanese restaurants, there is no sushi bar here and maki rolls are secondary fare and best priced during happy hour. Typical of any higher-end joint these days, the fish and rice are both served room-temperature, allowing the flavor of the fish to be front and center. 

Is Cloak & Petal the best sushi in town? No, that would be Sushi Ota. The flavors and the quality aren’t at that level, with some of the marinades a little lacking and the fish just not fragrant enough, especially when you consider the price point. Speaking of price point, I’d highly advise a close study of the menu in advance, as ‘small plates’ can easily translate to ‘pay a lot of money and leave hungry’ if you’re not careful.

Written by Joy

Thanks for reading. The Joy of Food blog celebrates eating well, traveling often, and living la dolce vita. San Diego, California is home base, but thoughts are from all over. Reviews and photos help to highlight wonderful (or not) food experiences from around the world.

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